Posted by Robert Ebanez on February 5, 2009 at 5:30pm
We were the first ones in modern surfing to have surfed places in Ka'u on the Big Island in the early 1970's. Honoli'i in Hilo was a good spot, drain pipes in Kalapana,Banyans in Kailua-Kona, and our secret spots in Ka'u. I never had the opportunity to surf on the Kohala coast. During my stay on Oahu I surfed south shore,Kaisers, Duke's, three's, rock piles, Ala Moana bowl, concessions, baby Haleiwa, Kewalos, Ha bush in Ewa, tracks by the power plant and North Shore, Haleiwa, Chuns reef, marijuana's. pipeline,velzy- land etc.The first time we surfed in a secret spot on the Ka'u coast, the local fishermen thought we were crazy. Actually, we were crazy. Remember leashes weren't invented. So, we are from the old school like our ancestors. Swimming is part of surfing. Drowning and being eaten by mano are some of the hazards of surfing. This beach we found is known for turtles, sharks and moi.I was in the ninth grade and hanging out with the older surfers like Cyril Lopez Sr. and Lambert Naboa. Cyril was out of school and working as a bartender at Punalu'u restaurant and bar. Lambert was a senior transfer from Waipahu High School on Oahu and his family were born and raised in Pahala.We were the rippers of Ka'u. Lambert and I were experienced surfers who surfed the North Shore of Oahu. That is were you earn your degree. Big waves on the North Shore of Oahu with no leash. Leashes are for kitten surfers. he he he.This surf spot is somewhere on the Big Island. We were parked on a road and looking at the surf about a mile away. This was our first time here exploring the possibility of this surfing spot. The three of us were stoked because the sea was glassy and a slight off shore breeze was coming from Makanau, for this place is usually rough seas. We walked over heaiu's and tons of petrogs of our ancestors on the lava beds.When we got to the bay we were yelling because we had the whole beach to ourselves and the waves were peeling perfectly both lefts and rights about 4 to 6 feet. We just waxed our boards and jumped into the water. I told you we were crazy. Normally one should study the currents and timing of the sets but who cares. We were in surfing heaven, in a remote part of the island with no life guards around. Well, I guess we were life guards too.I paddled out to the point and caught the larger sets that rolled in. Lambert and Cyril caught a wave in. I remember sitting alone in deep water by the point of the cave, and about 10 feet in front of me a huge shark fin pops out of the water. Well, I did not have time to do do my shorts because the mano was that close and probably a 16 footer.I'm glad braddah mano was not hungry. It swam slowly away and dived. Do you know how it feels to have seen what I just saw while your legs are dangling in the water?. Not a very good feeling. Lambert and Cyril came paddling out to me with big smiles on their faces. Stoked!I thought to myself, why spoil the fun and tell them, what I saw.I told you, we were freakin crazy!.Aloha noBobby E
Great Story Braddah. I grew up fishing and surfing Kalapana, Kamoamoa, Smashface, Pohiki, 1st, 2nd bay, Drainpipe and Secrets (wen was a secret). My grandmother is from Kalapana so as a keiki i spent alot of time down der. Dis was in da late 70's and all 80's before Pele reclaimed Kalapana. Fun filled days of my childhood i'll never forget. Aloha cuz
thanks for the story,much respect, and yes mano is always there or near ,thoase of us that live on the ka u coast welcome your visit. mahalo ke akua ola mau
Comments